Real story behind Canggu's epic rise to become Bali's hottest spot


Cool water down my rash shirt wakes me up as I launch on to a sleek Firewire board and paddle out at Old Man’s Beach. Beside me, Tropicsurf coach CJ Kimell is explaining the shape of the reef that sits beneath us and instructing me into position to catch my first wave of the day.

I pop up on a baby break and cruise towards the shore, the arched rooflines of the penthouses at the new COMO Uma Canggu looking back at me like hooded eyes.

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